Swiss Movement Replica Watches Up Close with the Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887

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Feel free to disagree, but I find some playfulness in this 7787. Perhaps it is in the way the circular ends of the chief hands clash with the circular counterweight of those moments, with legibility further exerted by the long “F U” power reserve hand which stretches far too long round the dial. The entire screen is a lively “so what?!” Type of item to me — and before you should crush your keyboard in debate, allow me to calm your nerves by saying: yes, Breguet Watches Dallas Replica does make a vast range of boringly perfect variations in the Classique lineup that do away with all this clutter.However, as this little watch would be peeking out from below a perfectly tailored cuff, following a few months of ownership I can envision many will wish they’d gone for the opinion that had some enjoyable component there on the dialup, not only the white plain of enamel to keep everyone happy by seeing you are part of this pack, wearing a dull watch.The power book is doubly functional since, for some inexplicable reason, the Breguet Classique 7787 provides a measly 38 hours of power reserve. The Breguet 591 DRL quality interior is a mere 11.5 lignes wide — that’s ancient watchmaker lingo for 25.9mm. At just 39mm wide, we’re taking a look at a relatively small watch with a much smaller motion inside and that, sadly, most of the time usually means a rather short power book. The hairspring is a horizontal one in silicon — for some reason I would personally prefer the perspective of a Breguet overcoil, but that really is just personal preference. But the smaller movement does have one principal remedying factor, and that is the comparatively slender case profile it permits for. At least it sits nice and low on the wrist, in spite of the automatic winding, power reserve, and phase of the moon signal packaged with its sapphire front and back.
The back of the watch indicates a view of the movement’s base plate which has some stunning engravings of the nighttime sky complete with all the earth. The image makes it look like our world sits right alongside a type of nebula composed of watch equipment. Breguet can create that back plate larger to seem to take up the majority of the case from the 5347 since the plate occupies most of the situation back with all the gears themselves consuming less space in the center. The backplate is bigger so that the movement does not seem small on the giant 5349 case. It is not even possible that showing the gears there is necessary, but this is done for aesthetic reasons to further imply the mechanical nature of the ultra-status item.Breguet really presented three brand new “on-order” Breguet Double Tourbillon watches for 2016, and each of these focuses on a hand-operated guilloche machine-engraved dial. This Breguet Double Tourbillon 5349 has blue enamel over the dial, which makes for a lovely contrast, as blue always goes well with platinum and diamonds. This is also, in my most humble of opinions, a visual improvement to the all-diamond-set dial of at least one preceding 5349 model.For contrast sake, in this article you’ll see both the Breguet 5347 and the bigger Breguet Double Tourbillon 5349 on my wrist. Though the 5347 makes for a stately, albeit comfy daily double tourbillon wearing experience, the Breguet Double Tourbillon 5349 is exactly what you want in your wrist when assembling the generals. In addition to being 50mm wide, with big lugs, the circumstance is 18.65mm thick – that isn’t that terrible, really. On the fitted alligator strap with diamond-set Breguet folding buckle, the Breguet Dual Tourbillon 5349 can sit snugly from the wrist. You just have to be familiar with lugs that might stand out past the borders of your wrist. I would be willing to deal with that size issue to experience the continuing majesty of wearing a wristwatch that apparently does the impossible by talking louder than me despite lacking a mouth of any sort.
Actually, Breguet did produce a “optional” dial to get the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette, which I have taken pictures of alongside the pocket view. I don’t know whether it has ever actually been put to the pocket watch, however it is interesting that it is. You can learn more about this Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette pocket watch here via Breguet.Without the assistance of any special lighting or a tripod (thanks, Legion of Honor) I attempted to catch the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette pocket view in addition to potential. I am hoping you could at least enjoy the majesty and grand existence that this immensely impressive modern marvel has. Along with being the stuff of collectors’ fantasies, additionally, it explains to so many people why a pursuit in good timepieces is both emotionally and socially rewarding. I’m so pleased to have had a chance to check it out. Unfortunately, I never got to meet Nicolas G. Hayek senior myself — nor will I ever. He’s someone that, at this stage in my “opinion career,” I believe I’d have had some great interactions with. Some amusing trivia: as a youthful watch author, I had submitted some interview questions to Mr. Hayek. I have always harbored the panic — albeit wild — that my questions might have been one of the last things he ever saw.I am pleased to announce that the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette pocket view is available for people to view at the Breguet: Art & Innovation In Watchmaking special exhibit that will be held in the San Francisco Legion of Honor from September 19th, 2015, before January 10, 2016. I strongly recommend checking this out really wonderful display of historical Breguet timepieces if you be in the San Francisco area.
Feel free to disagree, but I find any playfulness within this 7787. Perhaps it is in how the curved ends of the chief hands clash using the round counterweight of those seconds, together with legibility further hindered by the long “F U” power book hand that stretches far too extended across the dial. The entire screen is a lively “so what?!” Type of item to me — and until you should smash your keyboard in debate, let me calm your nerves by saying: yes, Breguet does make an extensive assortment of boringly perfect variants in the Classique line that eliminate all this clutter.However, as this little watch would be peeking out from under a perfectly tailored barbell, after a couple of months of ownership I could envision many will wish they had gone to the opinion that had some enjoyable element there around the dialup, not just the white plain of enamel to keep everybody happy by seeing you are part of the pack, wearing a dull watch.The power book is doubly practical as, for some inexplicable reason, the Breguet Classique 7787 provides a measly 38 hours of power reserve. The Breguet 591 DRL quality interior is a mere 11.5 lignes broad — that’s ancient watchmaker lingo for 25.9mm. At only 39mm wide, we are looking at a comparatively small watch with an even smaller movement inside and that, unfortunately, the majority of the time means a rather brief power reserve. The duo of automatic winding and power reserve indication should help one keep his or her view wound.More in this century would be the escapement and balance spring, both created from silicon. Nevertheless, the smaller movement does have one main remedying variable, and that is the comparatively slim case profile it permits for. At only 10.2mm thick, the Breguet Classique 7787 can be a dress watch with all the sub-40mm diameter to match. At least it sits nice and low on the wrist, even with the automatic winding, power reserve, and stage of the moon signal packaged with its sapphire front and back.
In September, 1999, the Swatch Group purchased Breguet Dress Watch Replica from an investment group. It was the fantasy of the late Nicolas G. Hayek to have the brand. Mr. Hayek senior started the Swatch Group in the 1980s, and is often credited with “saving” the Swiss watch industry throughout the quartz crisis. Hayek was known to be absolutely obsessed with Breguet and often referred to his favourite new as the “Jewel of the Swatch Group.” His passion lives on now, as his grandson, Marc Hayek, is the CEO of the company.Hayek senior reportedly hated the fact that the whereabouts of the 160 Marie Antoinette pocket opinion were unknown. Then he chose to generate a replica of the original entirely based on written descriptions and drawings made during the pocket watch’s design and structure. Reproducing the 160 pocket view into what’s the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette having only written and visual aids is one of the most talked accomplishments in contemporary watchmaking. Bear in Mind the love of the first? It was commissioned by a lover of Marie Antoinette for her, back in 1783. It was finished afterwards she (and Breguet himself) died, and it represented what many argue was the pinnacle of Breguet’s lifework: to unite complications with everlasting mechanical and beauty fascination.The video farther above is from the 2008 Baselworld watch trade show event where Nicolas G. Hayek is personally presenting the watch. It is just a couple of months following the 160 made headlines after being discovered again in late 2007. The wooden box made for this was a marvel, even using wood from a distinctive tree made famous by Marie Antoinette that Breguet allegedly purchased for something like 7 million Euros. If I recall correctly, the tree fell over obviously, but the condition upon which Versailles would sell the tree to Breguet was if it “donated” money for its restoration of the famed French palace.At 63mm broad in 18k gold, the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette attempted to replicate the original 160 in every way possible from the complications into the crystal made from natural rock crystal.

Unusually for a Breguet Watches Toronto Replica wristwatch, which is often the embodiment of classical design, the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is notably contemporary. The styling retains many signature Breguet design elements but is distinctly modern, while the complex movement blends traditional decoration with high-tech materials and production techniques.

“Équation Marchante” translates as “running equation”, most notable feature of the ref. 5887 that takes the form of a secondary minute hand tipped with a gilded Sun that indicates the equation of time. Relative to a conventional add-or-subtract equation of time display, a “running equation” is superior, being both more legible and visually intuitive.

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An irregular path around the Sun

An equation of time tells time as it really is, based on the Earth’s motion relative to the Sun. Because the Earth’s axis sits at a slightly oblique angle to the Sun, and it also orbits the Sun on an elliptical track rather than a perfect circle, the actual length of a day is not exactly 24 hours – that is known as apparent solar time. The time shown on ordinary watches is based on the simplified 24-hour day known as mean solar time. The difference between the two is the equation of time.

The equation of time varies throughout the year. Apparent solar time is as much as 14 minutes behind conventional time in February, and up to 16 minutes ahead in November. Most equation of time watches display just the difference between the two, usually with a sub-dial that with a scale that runs from “-15” to “+15”. While functional this sort of display is neither strongly legible or intuitive, since it tends to be small, approximate and requires mental mathematics.

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A running equation of time solves that problem with a second minute hand that indicates apparent solar time in real time. So the hand speeds up when apparent solar time runs ahead of conventional time, as it does in November, and slows down in February. In fact, the equation of time hand more or less tracks the motion of the Earth relative to the Sun.

Though the running equation of time existed in historical clocks and pocket watches, only a handful of modern day watchmakers have produced timepieces with this complication, including Vacheron Constantin. But the first to do it in a wristwatch was Blancpain, which premiered its Équation du Temps Marchante watch in 2004.

It’s worth pointing out that Blancpain is a sister company of Breguet, both being part of watchmaking conglomerate Swatch Group. While the mechanics behind the pair’s running equation of time mechanisms are similar, Breguet says its equation marchante was developed independently of Blancpain.


Celestial motions reproduced in miniature

The running equation of time on the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 relies on two key components. The first is a cam shaped like a kidney that’s a miniature of the analemma curve, a graphical representation of the position of the Sun relative to the Earth. Made of nickel, the cam is extremely slim and fixed to the underside of the clear sapphire disc visible at five o’clock. The cam is produced via LIGA, a lithographic process that combines moulding and plating to create high precise, microscopic parts that can be deposited directed onto other materials, including sapphire crystal.

The cam makes one complete revolution over the course of a year and as it rotates, a pivoted, fixed finger tipped with a roller jewel traces the inner curve of the cam. As the cam turns, the motion of the finger translates the shape of the cam into the non-linear movement of the Sun-tipped minute hand. This non-linear motion requires a differential linked to both the trains for apparent and mean solar time, which allows the secondary minute hand to move at a varying rate, both backwards and forwards, over the course of a year.

Letters representing the months are engraved on the sapphire disc, providing an approximate indication of the calendar, with the jewel-tipped finger just visible in between “J” and “D”


The Cal. 581DPE

Breguet labels the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 a grande complication, so there’s more to it. In addition to the running equation of time, the cal. 581DPE inside is also equipped with a power reserve display, as well as perpetual calendar that indicates the day, month and leap year in twin windows, along with the date on a retrograde scale. And positioned on the same axis as the equation of time cam is an one-minute tourbillon with a lightweight titanium cage as well as its hairspring, escape wheel and pallet jewels in silicon.

The skeletonised silicon escape wheel is visible at left

Unlike most tourbillons that have a slow-beat balance, the regulator in the Équation Marchante beats at 4 Hz, or 28,800 beats per hour, a feat largely thanks to the low-friction and lightweight silicon components in the escapement.

And the recognisable tourbillon reveals the identity of the base movement that powers the Équation Marchante: the same one that’s found in the Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5377. Though the perpetual calendar and equation of time are complications built on top of the tourbillon calibre, the entire movement remains commendably thin at just 5mm high.

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“Brevet du 7 Messier An 9” translates “patented on the ninth day of the tenth month” of the Republican calendar then in use, referring to Breguet’s invention of the tourbillon, which was June 26, 1801

The tourbillon seen from the rear of the watch; though the pallet jewels are rubies in the photos, they will be silicon in the production watch

Besides the tourbillon, the other novel feature of the base movement is its peripheral winding mechanism: the narrow, solid platinum rotor is mounted around the edge of the movement, instead of over the bridges as is convention.

First experimented with in the 1970s but abandoned due to sheer inefficiency, the peripheral rotor is now practical thanks to improved technology. It’s primary advantage is slimness, since it does away the added height of a normal rotor, while also having the benefit of leaving the movement entirely uncovered. For that reason the peripheral rotor is also found in Vacheron Constantin’s remarkably slim split-seconds chronograph and the ultra-flat minute repeater by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Audemars Piguet also put it inside the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, but mainly to accommodate the integrated chronograph mechanism.

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The rotor is mounted on three rolling bearings and winds the mainspring via an extremely large tooth wheel that surrounds the movement. Despite the lower efficiency of such a setup compared to a regular automatic mechanism, the Équation Marchante still boasts a respectable 80-hour power reserve (that’s just over three days), which can also be partially attributed to the effiency gains of the silicon components.

One of the three rollers for the rotor


A facelifted Breguet style

An ordinary Breguet might be described as elegant and delicate, but the Équation Marchante is, in contrast, imposing and hefty, possessed of the look of a modern day grand complication. The case is 43.9mm in diameter and 11.5mm, not oversized by the standards of comparable complications, but large for a Breguet.

The Équation Marchante is, in fact, a sports watch of sorts, being part of the Marine line of luxury sports watches catered less for swimming than for lounging on a large, even oligarch-worthy yacht. Consequently it has a screw-down crown with a depth rating of 100m.

While the Équation Marchante still retains many of the brand’s key elements, including the fluted case band and Breguet-style hands, the design is a modern take on the old fashioned Breguet look. Gone are the narrow strap horns found on most Breguet watches, in their place are a pair of angular, integrated lugs. Other facelifted design details include the Super-Luminova filling inside the tips of the hands, the applied Roman numerals and the prominent wave guilloche on the dial.

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The guilloche dial is just one aspect of the nautical theme running throughout the watch, a motif explained by the fact that Abraham-Louis Breguet was official clockmaker for the French navy in the early 19th century. Continuing with the theme, the bridges of the movement – visible in all their glory thanks to the peripheral rotor – are hand-engraved with the Royal Louis, a 19th century sailing ship that was the last vessel to bear the name that was traditionally bestowed on the largest ship in the Royal French navy.

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The top of the floating barrel is engraved with a compass rose, “Marine Royale” is engraved on the vertical faces of the tourbillon bridge, while the retrograde date hand is shaped like an anchor. The maritime details are unsubtle, though they give the watch a fresher look. Traditionalists, however, would probably want to wait for a Classique version of the equation of time.

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Though the design is new, all the constituent components are as elaborately and expensively executed as they are on classical Breguet watches. The dial, for instance, is solid gold, while the wave motif is engraved with a rose engine just as it would be for traditional patterns like barleycorn or hobnail. Similarly, the applied Roman numerals are blued steel, while the hands are 18k gold, and the calendar displays are framed in finely bevelled windows. Similarly, while the movement construction and layout is modern, the hand-engraving demonstrates intricate detail.

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The only detail inside that stands out, or rather does not, is the titanium tourbillon cage. Though the use of titanium is practical – it’s almost half the density of steel meaning the cage requires less energy to turn – the choice of metal does result in some aesthetic compromise. Despite the cage being decorated with a frosted surface and polished bevels, the natural colour of titanium means it lacks the brightness found in an equivalent component that’s made of steel.

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Price and availability 

The Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is available in 18k pink gold or platinum, with both being identical save for the colours. The pink gold version still retains a vague feel of the old school Breguet look thanks to its silvered dial, while the platinum model is unabashedly modern. Both cost almost the same, however, with barely a 7% difference in retail price.

Breguet Équation Marchante 5887 rose gold and platinum

The Équation Marchante in platinum (ref. 5887PT/Y2/9WV) costs US$230,400 or S$331,000. The same in 18k rose gold (ref. 5887BR/12/9WV) is priced at US$215,000 or S$309,000. It’ll be available at Breguet boutiques and retailers in the final quarter of 2017.


 

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